I start to stroke slowly and when I feel the board rise with the swell, I thrust the water back powerfully one-two-three, she has me. ‘Pop.’ I do ... push-up and throw my legs underneath. ‘Down-down-down.’ Down the wave I charge, accelerating quickly while I peruse the situation – turn toward the break – ‘Cut.’ I lean heavily into a bottom turn, sending a sheet of water off the edge of the board. ‘Up, up, up’ I travel up the wave toward the breaking wave shoulder, losing speed all the way. I. Antha teacherai paarkum pozhuthu yaruku koduthu vaithu irukiratho endru ninaithu kolven. En thambi classku antha teacher vanthu irunthargal, hi jolly endru teacherai sight adithu kondu irunthen. En veetil irunthu paarthaal anaithum theriyum, en veetu motai madiyil oru room irunthathu angu irunthu paarthaal anaithum theriyum, teacherum therinthaargal. Eppozhuthum thambiku kai asaithu kanbipen athe pola kanbikum pozhuthu teacher ennai paarthu vitargal.Teacher vayathum en vayathu pen pola thaan. Phir me taiyr hone chala gya or hum sab ek hotel me gye waha humne cake kata or dinner order kiya to mene mana kr diya bola meri tabiyat kharab he to bhabhi meri taraf dekhne lagi….to bhaiya bole aj tu udas kyu he to me bola kuch nhi bs wo thoda ghar ki yad a rhi thi….tabhi bhaiya ne mujhe ek wrist watch gift me di….Phir hum ghar ae…or sab sone jane lage tabhi thodi der bad bhabhi ae or boli plz abhay khana kha lo to me bola apko meri chinta krne ki koi zarurat nhi he….or me so gaya…phir kuch. This what you will acquire over the next two decades. Anyway, recall what I owe to your grandfather and your parents. One day nearly 22 years ago, your father showed me a turtle very like those on cave walls in Guam. I recall expressing my interest in seeing the caves and the rock art.“We’re nearly at Stirling North. We’ll get off onto Flinders Ranges Way there. We’ll stop to top up the fuel, use the loo, and have early lunch around Quorn or just past it.”They did just that. When they were on.
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